Buy at your own risk. Any home console's model, regardless of it's baseline, has the potential to do worse compared to supposedly inferior models. Nothing is guaranteed.

On this page, is a summary of the wiki's recommendations of which version of every home console is best to buy. When determining our decisions, we base it off of functionality and reliability, not price or cosmetics. Price fluctuates, cosmetics are subjective, but capabilities and reliability are objective. Each listing for each home system will supply the best version to get (eg. Wii RVL-001), which revision within a version to get (if applicable, eg. RVL-CPU-40/60), and the reasoning for the given version+revision. This list assumes that one is a consumer that will not mod their home system unless they have to. In other words, this list aims to detail home systems as in their stock form, in order to not complicate decisions. If you'd like a detailed summary of all the home console revisions and versions out there, check out the Console Revisions Overview!

If a home console is not listed here, it doesn't have any extant versions or revisions. The term “revision” is used for internal changes that have no perceptible exterior difference to the user, while the term “version” is used for external changes of relative significance, such as a redesign or remodel.

If you want to specifically know which home systems have the best hacks, homebrews, and so on, check out the Home Console Buying Guide for EOPs/Hacks!

Why? This Atari 2600 system, produced during 1977-1980, preserves all 6 of the “difficulty switches” on the front panel of the device. All later versions relocate two of these to the back panel, close to the I/O. Furthermore, these are known for better build and output quality, especially for the earliest revisions of these.

How to Identify? Quite simply, look to see if the 2600 system has 6 switches on the top: 3 to the left and right of the cartridge slot. If you have this, then you have a Six Switch 2600. Otherwise, you have a later version.

Why? This revision of the Six Switch is the most common one, produced during 1978-1980. While there is an aforementioned earlier “Heavy Sixer” revision, they offer only a subtle benefit in build/output quality, with a much larger cost and crucially, a much lower likelihood to actually find it. For this reason, it's better to simply acquire a “Light Sixer”.

How to Identify? Differences between the “Light Sixer” and “Heavy Sixer” may be self explanatory; the Light Sixer doesn't weigh as much. There are also some differences in console molding, with the “Light Sixer” having more rounded corners. See https://consolevariations.com/blog/result-heavy-vs-light-sixer for an image. However, don't shy away from a Heavy Sixer if you actually find it for a fair price, or in other words, it's more important to simply pay attention to the amount of switches.

Why? Despite losing 2 controller ports compared to the first version of the 5200, the 2 controller system eliminates a notoriously unreliable and inconvenient “RF switch” box, which you may be familiar with if you have seen the AVGN episode for the Atari 5200. This box in essence, contains all video output and electric throughput that the 5200 requires, and for some reason, Atari made it the only possible RF box one can use for the 5200. Unsurprisingly, if the box breaks (which is common), you're out of luck. That right there, is why it's better to buy a 2 controller port 5200: to avoid the dreaded box.

How to Identify? On the front of the system, look at the controller ports. If there's 2 ports instead of 4, you have the superior 5200. You can also look for if the console has a power switch on the system (towards the back), as the 4 controller 5200 has it on the dreaded RF box.

Why? There are two known versions of the Magnavox Odyssey 2. The first one has detachable controllers, but the RF switch box is proprietary. In other words, this creates a similar conundrum to the 5200, where if the OEM/original RF box breaks, you have to get another one. In contrast, the second one eliminates the RF switch issue, allowing the usage of any box. However, Magnavox decided to be idiots and hard-wire the controllers when they were detached on the previous system. Luckily, the controllers can be easily removed from the motherboard without soldering. Overall, if you hate disassembling, get the first version. If you hate RF switch box mania, get the second version.

How to Identify? If you prefer the first version, look at the back for controllers that can be plugged in and out, or detached. If you prefer the second version, look at the back for controllers that cannot be detached… those are the only visual differences on the systems.

Why? The Intelivision has 3 known versions. Of these, there is the original Intellivison, produced from 1980 to 1983. Following this, is the Intellivision II, then the INTV Intellivision III. The original Intellivision has hardwired controllers that are not easily removed, and their cords are short. However, the “phone” keys on the controllers are indented, and thus easily used when not looking down. With the Intellivision II, the controllers are now detachable, but they do not have indentations on the “phone” keys anymore. There are also some technical improvements, such as the cartridge slot being modified to accept video input, alongside internal chip changes. However, this comes with a few technical issues, making certain titles not run correctly on the Intellivision II. The III is basically a larger II with hardwired controllers, so it's pretty much the worst. Overall, if you hate looking down at a controller to press the right button, get the original Intellivision. If you hate hardwired controllers with short cords, get the Intellivision II.

How to Identify? Easy. The first Intellivision has wood grain on the front, a sort of “faded gold” on top, and controller slots that face each other vertically. The Intellivision II is smaller, white without wood grain, and has the controller slots rest next to each other. To avoid the III, simply look for “INTV System III” on the top, with a design identical to the first Intellivision, but with no “faded gold” or wood grain.

Why? The 7800 has only 2 versions, which are identical in every single feature except two. Feature 1 is the fact that the first 7800 was produced in 1984, not 1986-1992. More significantly, feature 2 is the fact that the 1984/first 7800 has a big expansion port on the left side of the console, while the 1986/second 7800 doesn't. When it comes to gameplay, enjoyment, and practically everything else “conventional”, the expansion port doesn't matter; it was never used. However, for enthusiasts, this port is important. Several homebrew devices and peripherals use the port quite effectively, with the 7800XM Module being one good example. This module adds high score keeping, RAM, expansion ports, and more, with a significant amount of homebrew(?) games utilizing it. If that sounds cool to you, then get the first 7800 with the expansion port.

How to Identify? Look on the left side of the system, towards the back, for the presence of a large expansion port, with a sticker below it (if not torn off) stating “EXPANSION INTERFACE”. Ensure the plug/port is actually there, because some later 7800s still have a hole or indent there, but no actual port.

Why? The expansion port 7800 doesn't even have revisions, so if you care about that, obviously it doesn't matter because there are none. However, the latter day no-port 7800 does have revisions, but they are minor. Earlier revisions will have a small indent or hole where the expansion port used to be, while later revisions won't. There is a reason why you should go for the ones with an indent or hole, and that is superior game compatibility. Later portless 7800s have compatibility issues possible with any game using FE bank-switching (at least 10 like Centipede), while the earlier portless 7800s only have minor issues with one game, “Dark Chambers”.

How to Identify? Look on the left side of the system, towards the back, for a small hole or indent/outline (where the expansion port used to be). If there is a hole/indent, you have an earlier portless 7800, otherwise you do not.

Why? The two versions of the NES both have an equally balanced set of pros and cons. The NES-001 front-loader has a less reliable cartridge slot, better video quality, more ports preserved (expansion port on the bottom), and can require workarounds to play bootleg/region-free cartridges. In contrast, the NES-101 top-loader has a much more reliable cartridge slot, noticeably poorer video quality (RF out), less ports preserved, and doesn't require workarounds to play bootlegs or region-free cartridges. It is important to note that certain NES-001 revisions will have less problems in playing bootleg cartridges, while certain rare NES-101 revisions will possess a superior video quality. Overall, if you want effortless superior video quality and all the ports, get the NES-001. If you want superior reliability/cartridge freedom and don't care about the video quality, get the NES-101. If you're willing to mod your systems (modchip or RGB video), then decide between expansion port (001) or reliable cartridge slot (101). Find the right NES-001/101 revision to have more cartridge freedom or better video quality, respectively.

How to Identify? The NES-001 and NES-101 are both very distinctive systems. If your system is grey (or yellowed), rectangular, and takes cartridges up front, you have a NES-001. If your system is white (or yellowed), somewhat square but with smooth spots, and takes cartridges on the top, you have a NES-101.

Why? For the NES-001, systems with a PCB ending in -05 to -09 will have less safeguards against bootleg cartridges, while not possessing any of the game compatibility issues found in the first NES systems. With the NES-101, the CPU-AV-01 systems have a composite out instead of RF out, which eliminates all of the 101's video quality issues. The note about modding is there primarily for the NES-101, because CPU-AV-01 systems are rare, and they all can be modded to support composite out, AV multi out (the plug for many later Nintendo systems), or RGB out. The NES-001 can also be modded to eliminate cartridge safeguards, by simply changing a few pins on the console's internal lockout chip.

How to Identify? Alas, the NES-001 is the first system that requires significant work to identify it's revision. To the best of my knowledge, the only way to determine the revision of a NES-001 is to take it apart and look at the PCB for the respective numbers. Furthermore, the -05 to -09 PCBs will have copyright dates of 1986 or 1987 on the board. Luckily, identifying the NES-101's CPU-AV-01 is a lot easier, as it only involves looking at the back to see if there's a composite out plug.

Why? They're very easy to find, and they have all the features of the Master System. Of the 3 Master System versions which exist, there is the original MS, the Master System II, and the Power Base Converter, which is actually just a Sega Genesis addon, so it will be excluded for now. The Master System II is somehow worse than the original in all aspects nowadays, as it's rarer, more expensive, lacks composite out and the Sega Card slot, and may even have worse sound. The original Master System, being the first MS released, will have all of these features.

How to Identify? Since the recommended version to get is just the normal Master System, simply do not buy one that is small and lacks a reset button, that says “Master System II” on the cartridge door.

Why? Excluding minor version changes like Yaroze/Debug, there are 2 versions of the PlayStation, those being the “Fat” and the “Slim” PSone. For the PSone, one can see that Sony merely shrunk the system down and removed the serial/parallel ports. While it may be a slightly more reliable system, this is not certain, unlike the removal of ports. The PSone is also slightly more expensive than the original PlayStation, which can be somewhat reliable, have the best video quality, and preserve all of the I/O (except RCA) for a reasonable price. Thus, it makes sense to get the original PlayStation, for preserving all ports (in the right revision) at a cheaper price. If reliability is a huge issue for you, it may be better to get a PSone, but ultimately all PlayStation drives are unreliable, and the best long-term solution is an ODE, of which the PSone cannot use as of yet. More details in the main revisions article for the PS1; please read if you do not know the benefits of an ODE.

How to Identify? For simply identifying the “Fat” PlayStation regardless of the revision, it's very simple as the console is a big blocky system, gray in color. If for some reason you cannot figure out the color, look for sharp corners and a raised disc tray cover. Systems in black or blue are “Fat” Yaroze or Debug PS1s, respectively.

Why? First, the reason for the uncertainty. There are two generally “good” revisions of the PS1 that have the best featureset, these being the SCPH-5501 and SCPH-7001/7501. The reason for the uncertainty is Optical Drive Emulators or ODEs; the 5501 can support either xStation or PS10, while the 7001/7501 only supports PS10. In general, xStation appears to be superior, but installing it will remove the ability to use the original PS1's drive, unlike the PS10. More details in the main revisions article for the PS1. The decision assumes that “having options” is superior than not having options (in relation to an ODE). As for the rest of the revision's positives, the SCPH-5501 is best mostly because of the improved drive reliability (over the 1001), the superior video ram (allowing higher bit shading and faster graphics calculations), the closest-to-full I/O (parallel, serial, AV out - only RCA/DFU is missing and it's not as important), and a potentially slightly clearer video output. The 7001/7501 possesses the exact same things, except maybe the clearer video output.

How to Identify? Simply look at the bottom of the system for the black and white sticker. At the top right, you will find the model number. If you are unable to view this sticker (damage/no pictures), check the back of the system. While this approach is NOT enough to determine between 5501 and 7×01 systems, it is enough to determine if a system is or is not one of those 3. Systems with RCA ports (red/white/yellow) are NOT one of these 3 revisions; they would be a SCPH-1001 or SCPH-5903 (SE Asia exclusive). It could also be a Debug or Yaroze unit, but they would have been “eliminated” earlier (different color). Continuing on, a system lacking the large “parallel” port on the back right side is NOT one of these 3; it would be a SCPH-9001. If, for some reason, you cannot even view the back of the system, then you would mostly be out of luck. However, if there are any pictures of the drive tray open, this can help you at least figure out if it's the SCPH-1001. SCPH-1001 systems have the “black area” (laser location) of the drive tray on the top, while all other systems have it on the right side.

Why? There is only one version of the original Xbox. All meaningful differences are within the revisions (1.0, 1.1, etc.).

How to Identify? N/A

see below, under 9th Generation